Arm spring mod for Flycam 6000

[Barry Dennis]

Hi All
I just joined this forum today by searching for information about the Flycam 6000. I have a production company and used the Steadicam JR in the past with great results. I upgraded to the Flycam and instantly noticed the arm was too stiff. After looking at the posts on changing the springs I'm totally confused.

I'm using a Sony 2100 camera with the Flycam Magic arm. Can anyone point me in the right direction/Post to replace the springs?

By the way, You folks are very creative in the methods used to redesign equipment. Glad I found you.

Barry Dennis

[Charles King]

Hi Barry. most of the threads in this forum is about the Flycam arm and springs. Have you read through all? I'm sure those members with similar issues will reply. Oh hey. Welcome.

[Michael Suchar]

Welcome to HBS Barry. Always nice to have a new member. I didn't have to do anything to my springs as I fly a really heavy set up and the stock spring tension works for my load. There are a few other members who modified their springs and did some really good write ups on the procedures. I'll try to locate the threads for you and send you the links.

[Olie Walker]

Barry,
good to hear from you!
i have the flycam with 3 spring mod (on one arm) and 2 springs on the arm closest to the vest.

i changed the springs down .5mm in wire thickness, and kept the same length, i also go them re-coiled over the original arm tensioner threads so i could use them as they were intended.
the 3rd spring i mad from the same spring but ive halved the length and slowly heated the ends up to make hooks so i could cut the original wire and join with 2 clamps each side, ill dig you out some pictures.

my rig i fly is hv20+dof adapter, rails, matte box, 50mm lens, larger battery, 11" HD screen and other bits, all about 10kg, the 3 spring mod is easily enough for this weight and i think could carry about 16kg max on full .
The arm sits horizontal now and the 3 spring mod definetly made alot of difference on the rebound of the arm, with 2 springs it worked most definetly, but if there was harsh movement the springs didnt have enough fast spring rate to keep the arm from swaying up/down, 3 spring fixed this.

This is my thread with some pics:

http://hbsboard.com/index.php/topic,4068.0.html

hope this helped.
Oli

[Chris Harding]

Hi Barry

The 2100 is a pretty light camera so you will probably need to replace the current springs with ones about 2 wire sizes down at least to make the arm work well. The original springs are 4mm dia wire and I went down to 3.55mm wire but my cams are a bit heavier.
Simply strip the arms, remove the springs and take them to a spring manufacturer and tell them you need them around 60% softer ..they will make up a new set for you and use the existing cables and plugs.

Chris

[Olie Walker]

closeups of my 3 spring mod, if it wasnt for chris and eric  i would have stuck with 2 springs, but 3 is the way forward for SMOOOOOTHness with this arm cheers guys






the guards you see i have installed on the 3 spring bit is because my first attempt at the middle spring resulted in the spring hook snapping because i heated it up too quickly/too much and weakend it, the bit flew across the room, luckily at home and hit the wall making a scratch!!.
Since then I had visions of this failure hitting a bride or someone on a job and i was horrified, so i installed the safety screens i think they look cool smoked too!!! makes the arm more mysterious!

pic of a 3a arm i found

[Chris Harding]

Hey Olie

Nice to hear from you again!!
Yeah, my middle spring is also just done with cable clamps but they seem to be holding OK!! I would be happier if I can get the cables professionally crimped (at a boating shop ) as the clamps are a temporary arrangement!!

Barry I would guess that the HV20 + DOF is around the same weight as your 2100 so a single wire size down should be OK!!  I dunno where Olie has his gimble (Olie?) but I had to drop mine quite a bit down the shaft otherwise I ended up having to keep the rig boomed up as in an idle position it floated way too low. Cos my HMC72's weigh around 8 lbs, I needed more weight on the bottom  sled and had to also drop the rails down. However it works nicely now!!! If I walk past a bride and groom without any booming, they are nicely in shot and I don't have to boom up at all!!

Last question Olie ? Are you flying with the arm on your left or right??? I'd love to have the arm on my left but it still mis-behaves!!!

Chris

[Olie Walker]

hey!
chris i got it on my left!  feels much better to me on my left bent round me to my right. but it works both ways!
i had to re align the gimbal as the bracket was bent out of the box, so the rig was always twisting to balance , once that was sorted i adjust the gimbal about 3" from the topplate, there is still about 6" till my bottom stage then.

ive got my 7d now with extra bits but ive yet to fly it as i am using a really nice L zoom lens but the lens inside shifting unbalances the rig due to the weight shift ! not tried it with a prime yet i wanted to be able to fly a zoom with a remote focus and remote zoom on a handle on the rig



cheers
Oli

[Chris Harding]

Hey Olie

Very cool remote setup!!

Now I need some help with the socket block at the end of the arm. It's pretty obvious if you move the backmount frame to the other side the socket block will have the adjustment screws on the inside instead of the outside and also the spring loading will work in reverse!!!

What did you change on the block??? I figure that simply taking it off the arm and turning it 180 degrees is the way to go so your adjustment screws are now on the outside but what did you do about the spring loading? Should the spring also be reversed..if so did you cut a new "notch" in the other side of the block to lock the end of the spring or what???

I'd really appreciate your take on this as I have a week without weddings coming up so I can play with the rig and test it out!!

Many thanks

Chris

[Barry Dennis]

Thank You all so very much for your help.
I'll try to get thinner springs first to see how that works. Did anyone acquire springs on line?

Barry Dennis

[Tom Hall]

hey!
chris i got it on my left!  feels much better to me on my left bent round me to my right. but it works both ways!
i had to re align the gimbal as the bracket was bent out of the box, so the rig was always twisting to balance , once that was sorted i adjust the gimbal about 3" from the topplate, there is still about 6" till my bottom stage then.

ive got my 7d now with extra bits but ive yet to fly it as i am using a really nice L zoom lens but the lens inside shifting unbalances the rig due to the weight shift ! not tried it with a prime yet i wanted to be able to fly a zoom with a remote focus and remote zoom on a handle on the rig



cheers
Oli

Ollie, that looks like my JVC camera remote.  Does that means your IR bulb is actually pointing at the camera in that pic, just covered by the black box?  Is that just an optical audio cable that carries the infrared light to the camera?  Is it really that simple?

Also, what's the pirate wheel looking thing?  Follow focus?

[Olie Walker]

hello!
yes its the remote from the canon hv20, i was so annoyed at having to press record and unbalancing it i rigged up this optical lead so that i can just press the record button on it, i still have to set the gain/aperture etc.. though sucks... just mounted the remote into some foam, made a clip for steadycam and ran the lead up the shaft, gave it enough so that i can spin the rig a few times, otherwise you will rip something off when you do a fast manouveure

The wheel is a follow focus wheel yes its from a broadcast camera, its not working yet as the gear that fits on the lens is totally the wrong type for the 50mm lens, as stop to stop it turns 25 teeth on the end unit, my 50mm lens does a complete 360 degree from macro to infinity so its useless (100 or so teeth on the gear i have), but... on my 7d the lenses focus all use 1/4 of a turn to focus with, so if i can adapt this i will definetly use it! other than that i could use a tiny tiny cog and gear it down but not sure yet.

i was looking at remote follow focus systems but so pricey, for what i need a wired system will work ok once i get it sorted!

Chris - my spring as you look down at the socket block on your left side - the bit that sits in the groove of the socket block is at the bottom outside of the socket block, i think i took it apart and completly swapped it round from the bearings so it sat that way - the way it is if i let go - the arm will try to swing to my right which is towards me.
how was yours placed?

Oli

[Charles King]

The remote control on that handle is really inappropriate. But to each his own

[Tom Hall]

Hahaha the camera remote, or the focus remote?  I'm loving the camera remote idea.  Can I bug you to post another picture of your sled handle though?  I'm trying to follow the path of the cable and keep getting lost amongst the HDMI, TosLink, and FF cables.

[Chris Harding]

Hi Olie

Thanks!! I'll try it that way over the weekend and post my results. The last time I tried it I'm not sure if I just took the entire socket block and turned it 180 degrees in the bearings or not!!

Just for interest, on your remote, are you using fibre optic cable to transfer the IR data from the remote to the camera or is that a wired remote??

Chris